My Cup Runneth Over: Melbourne’s Food & Wine Festival
“World’s Longest Lunch”
“Which is your favorite?” one asked, while another kept interrupting, “Which are you having next?”
Despite substantial chatter two hours into Melbourne’s Food and Wine Festival’s “World’s Longest Lunch,” I had already forgotten the local trio’s names across from me as I balanced conversations with three other Australian natives.
The two sisters, accompanied by one of their husbands, were eager to share their reflections on travel, art, and music but became intrigued by my selectiveness in wine earlier in the lunch. When I explained I had been intentionally pairing wines, they paused to reflect on the several pours they lost count of and pivoted to explore the art of indulging in taste, finding more in less.
I hadn’t tried all the drinks on the menu: Brick Lane Brewing’s ales and lager, Naked Life’s non-alcoholic cocktails, and two of Tahblik’s other offerings. However, there was so much to savor in my pairings that my modest pours of the Coueslant Chardonnay Pinot Noir, 2023 Marsanne, and 2019 Shiraz, and a tasting of the 2022 Grenache Mourvèdre Rosé allowed my cup to runneth over. Food, drink, and great conversation were divinely prepared through the creativity of chef Andrew McConnell and events curator Peter Rowland.
The Coueslant Chardonnay Pinot Noir with the entrée was especially my favorite pairing: zucchini flowers gracefully wrapped a sensational fluffy dollop of feta, complementing pickled heirloom vegetables dressed in a subtle pesto sauce that powerfully tamed the salty cheese and sour vinegar flavors. The chilled Coueslant’s crisp was a gentle sweep of buttery texture that transformed a mouthful of popping bubbles into a hydrating fruity flavor reminiscent of drinking from a cantaloupe on a hot summer’s day graced by intermittent breezes. Paired with the entrée was the curiosity one felt when carving their teeth past the melon’s pink fleshiness and into the green, earthy outer layer — moving from contrasting tastes that, through some synchronicity, were meant for each other.
“Would you like this one? I haven’t seen you drink much of it yet,” asked the younger sister, whom I shamefully nicknamed “Rockstar,” lifting a bottle of the 2019 Shiraz that boasted a similar berry-licorice richness to a Tannat. Contrary to her demure character, she lived a daring life as a young woman and, well into her silver years, admitted to everyone’s shock, including her sister’s, that she was headed to a punk rock concert later that evening to see her favorite band.
“Just a bit of it, please. I’m waiting for dessert because I think it’ll be a temptatious match for the chocolate tart.” I apologetically reached my wine glass over other guests’ tableware, tightly arranged in sinuous seating accommodating thousands of guests. Luckily, the natural beauty of King’s Domain, enhanced by libations, distracted us from our initial, sober discomfort.
Realizing she had faces of comedic surprise to answer to, the Rockstar clumsily poured the wine, stopped as I directed, and quickly sat down. Before articulating her brewing explanation, she reached for the 2023 Marsanne, which I claimed as my favorite “drinkable” wine at lunch. Its versatile fruit flavor with a hint of tart paired well with the confit chicken and salad lyonnaise (without a serving of sausage, as I requested a pork-free lunch).
“She lives loud aloud, and I live quietly aloud,” the Rockstar remarked in between our laughs about her new nickname. Her older sister, nodding in uncertain agreement, turned and looked at her as though she was meeting someone for the first time. Returning an assuring smile, the youngest continued, “I always admired how my sister enjoyed life and her passions, with or without her husband, and even until now. I suppose I’m just learning to do more of that now. When you get our age, you realize there is still so much one can enjoy; we have more than enough to discover about ourselves and other people that it’s hard to believe one doesn’t have everything they need to be happy.”
